"When you think about TSE, you probably think about a sweater, but of course we are so much more," Tess Giberson stated. She proved her point today with a spare and smartly edited Fall collection that included menswear for the first time. The strength of the show was the play of proportions. A fitted pair of stovepipe trousers, for example, formed the base of an ensemble that layered two long tops under a boxy jacket with dropped shoulders and cropped sleeves. Somehow, the effect was unforced.

That's not to say the collection was glitch-free—a series of droopy-crotched suspender pants come to mind, and it's doubtful the TSE customer will want to pay big bucks for a mini with deliberate runs, however clever the technique used to create them. "We're not trend-driven," Giberson demurred. Then how do you explain the sexy fitted skirt (with the highest waist we've seen this season) balancing out a quilted puffer vest? Or the presence of that Fall 2007 must-have—a coat with sleeves of contrasting material—cleverly rendered here with a tweedy woven body and cable-knit sleeves?