United Bamboo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 4, 2007
By Laird Borrelli
Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki were thinking about architecture. An origamilike building technique—¿blocks,¿ as they called them, of fabric folded in on itself to create a square—turned up in various guises, from the velvet-ribbon trim of an A-line dress to the waistband finish of a poufy plaid skirt. While striking on a navy coat and effective on a plaid shirtdress, in other instances all these folds didn¿t seem to do much but add bulk to even the slenderest of runway-model frames.For the ironic hipster with a window office at an ad agency there were, as always, desirable revamped classics, like a toggle coat, a three-piece shorts suit, and tight gloves of shimmery, cyborg gunmetal. Black sheer stockings layered over opaque white tights, on the other hand, were a hard sell. An ensemble featuring a leather riding jacket and plaid jodhpurs was satisfyingly tough but seemed incongruous among dresses that looked like Edwardian children¿s clothes. The last look, a sequined frock with a petal-tiered bell skirt, was described in the program notes as ¿geodesic¿—as in Buckminster Fuller¿s dome—but might more simply have been labeled an homage to Paul Poiret.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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