Undercover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 26, 2007
By Sarah Mower
In a season when the collision of the natural and the synthetic—and the inconvenient truth of global warming—seem to be hanging out there on the periphery of fashion-consciousness, Jun Takahashi has been quietly thinking things through in his own intelligent way. "You can't tell whether a winter's going to be warm or freezing," he rightly observes. So now he's adapted NASA technology for the inner cladding of flimsy coats: His lightweight furs with climate-sensitive linings keep the body cool in heat and snug in a cold snap. He's also added waterproofing techniques to knits and wool coats designed to cope with the violent unexpected downpours that are increasingly part of everyday life.Still, Takahashi isn't making any heavy apocalyptic weather of all this. True to the name of his collection, the content is mostly kept undercover, a secret understood only when you get up close. Outwardly, it's more about the clever and charming way he manipulates sporty knits, like gray jersey tracksuits, shorts over woolly tights, marled sweaters, knitted dresses with sheer yokes, and a cardigan dress made from quilted silver satin. For Undercover followers, there's still a signature subversion going on (check out the razor-blade paillettes at the end), but this collection is broadening its appeal from being a minority-taste art cult to something that is playfully accessible in an unusually smart way.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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