This season the young-designer-struggling-to-find-a-voice has become a mini-theme, so Zac Posen┐s focused Fall show was a reassuring development. In his five-and-a-half years on the runway, the 26-year-old has made a signature of forties-inflected tailoring. And today there was a new polish to his suits, evident in their strong linessome jackets had nipped waists, others flared capelike from the shoulder. A coat that was all collar, and a fur with rufflesnever the best ideawere rather less reliable. But a tweed day dress was a winner. With curving seams piped in black patent, it was cut to smartly maximize his model┐s hourglass potential.
When it came to eveningwearPosen┐s first lovehe reined in the exuberance that can sometimes get him in trouble. Still, he couldn┐t resist a statement gown or twothis season Agyness Deyn was charged with pulling off the requisite show-closing dress with the stiffly voluminous skirts. But Posen mostly stuck to slimmer silhouettes in body-loving stretch silks and colors that the camera adores. Theseunlike some of the more showy pieceshave serious red-carpet promise, and the crowd ate them up.
Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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