January 31, 2008 New York
Perhaps that was Cox and Silver's way of emphasizing that these were clothes designed to be primarily appreciated by the person who wears them. Hence, the collection's quiet classicism: pinstripe, herringbone, shearling, Prince of Wales and windowpane checks. But these menswear clichés were reconfigured as Duckie Brown classics. Their signature short-over-long proportion, for instance, appeared time and again in a newly restrained version as a nylon parka over a suit (sometimes with a knapsack). The union of formal and casualit also suggested man and boyevoked Raf Simons' preoccupations. So did the fabric research. A stiffened, crumpled nylon, used for an army jacket and a trench, looked like paper. Evening looks were the essence of male glamour. They included a lace sweater and a sweatshirt in a Prince of Wales check made up of Duckie's signature extravagant beading. The allure of these clothes is incontestable. Much more contentious is the name on the label. Arch and amusing that name may be, but it is possibly distracting people from the substance of Cox and Silver's work. Look again, guys, because you have no idea what you're missing.