January 12, 2008 Milan
Nilsson has always had his own clothes made by a tailor, so he was keen to incorporate that experience, working with a handful of the most classic masculine elementscamel, navy, chalk-stripe, gray flannel, glen plaidand a couple of silhouettes (one softly fitted, the other with a broad shoulder and a flared pant leg). The emphasis was on lightness of construction, which felt like the right move for a house that, under Gianfranco himself, was famous for its architectural weightiness. But Nilsson is as obsessed with detailing as Ferré was, pointing out the working buttonholes on a jacket sleeve, or proudly pulling open a mac to show its properly fused seams. This first collection layered tones and texturesa glen plaid suit paired with a shirt and tie in the same grayfor a subtle richness. That's why a pair of poured-on leather pants struck a bum notehow did Steven Tyler get in here? As an honorable mention, the superb shoes, handmade in Naples, were one more reminder that men's footwear is having one hell of a moment.