After five years in London, Johan and Marcella Lindeberg have moved back to New York, consolidated all their collections under two umbrellas (J.Lindeberg and Golf), and knuckled down to isolate the essence of their style. What they came up with was something Johan calls "Elegant Bohemian." It incorporates a New York feel (there are elements in the new collection of the tweedy butchness of the AbEx crowd from the Cedar Tavern, and Julian Schnabel's nonchalant style has been a huge influence on the Lindebergs), but it's actually Johan's own approach to dressing that has been the launchpad for the new J.Lindeberg, just as it was the defining element in the collections the label used to show in Milan.

His formula? Tux jacket with jeans, at all times of the day and night. Or sometimes, tux jacket with sweatpants. "You can't go wrong," he insists. It's the kind of dressy rocker look you might associate with his close friend Dave Gahan. For the rest of us, the designer is pushing a tailored blazer-and-denim pairing. While the European connection was broken just as Lindeberg's shows were getting interesting (largely thanks to their use of extravagant volume), the duo has gone back to a pared-down look in New York, as in the signature low-belting trench and the lean tux shirts. At least lapels are wider. "That narrow lapel? I'm not feeling so rock 'n' roll," says Johan.