Jsen Wintle
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 20, 2008
By Tim Blanks
London menswear enigma Jsen Wintle's specialty is the arcane inspiration. For fall, he'd been looking at early daguerreotypes of cowboys, which got him brooding on frontier lawlessness and the way that people snap in extreme circumstances. Each seat in his show venue carried an anonymous quote about the human compulsion to sin. Given that said venue was a crepuscular basement, the prevailing mood before the first outfit had even appeared was distinctly ominous, well in keeping with the air of the night that always attached to Wintle's bespoke business in London.But as soon as the show started, the shadows lifted, and it was plain to see that the designer's move into ready-to-wear has eased him away from his signature precision tailoring. The presentation was a tightly focused variation on a theme. Either subtle or dull—take your pick—but what could be simpler than a leather jacket and jeans? Wintle was keen to show his casual side with the denim and knitwear, like a long, cabled cardigan coat. The emphasis on outerwear was something new for him: puffer jacket and vest, a herringboned peacoat with a big shawl collar. But that last detail suggested his heart will always be with formalwear, like the tux-striped trousers he showed with a gray cabled sweater. The last outfit, a cropped tailcoat, ideally paired with jeans, was another attempted détente between day and night. Hedi Slimane is clearly the benchmark for this sort of endeavor, and Wintle has a way to go before he matches that kind of mastery. But he's been working with Kopenhagen Fur, so there was a patchwork of black mink on the front of one leather jacket and a double-breasted coat of astrakhan. They suggested he has at least mastered the art of keeping his (Russian) customers satisfied.
See all from Jsen Wintle › Timeline
see all designers ›
Fall 2008 Menswear
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
V
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
A
Adam Kimmel Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Ann Demeulemeester -
B
Band of Outsiders Bottega Veneta Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Collection Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
E
Emanuel Ungaro Emporio Armani Etro -
F
Fendi -
G
Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hermès -
J
J.Lindeberg Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Jsen Wintle Junya Watanabe -
K
Kris Van Assche -
L
Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moschino -
N
Nautica Neil Barrett Number (N)ine -
O
Obedient Sons & Daughters -
P
Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
R
Raf Simons Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rykiel Homme -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sean John Shipley & Halmos -
T
Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Tommy Hilfiger Tony Melillo -
V
Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
Y
Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Z Zegna
ERROR:
