February 03, 2008 New York
The "chubby koala" motif on a sweater? Absolutely random, which is undoubtedly why Bastian is big in Japan. He has an eye for the kind of fetishizing detail that the Japanese excel at. So his corduroy was the traditionally heavy English kind, rather than the lighter Italian variety. He replaced the belt of a trench with a martingale (the coat looked so much better for it that it seemed stupid no one had thought of it sooner). And he revived the nylon-filled shirt jacket he remembered his uncle wearing. Bastian was thinking of the shirt or sweater that becomes a jacket as a response to a world where the climate is changingin-between clothes, if you like. Again, such a notion gave the collection a depth that wasn't immediately apparent. If you take the secrets that men keep as the key idea (John Kennedy, Jr. as inspiration only sustained the backstory), an anonymous tan nylon jacket that opened to reveal a vivid orange lining might even be the key piece.