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Missoni

MILAN, January 12, 2008
By Tim Blanks
In the closing years of the last century, Angela Missoni had a stab at her family's menswear. Then she went off to revivify—with some success—the womenswear that bears the Missoni label. But she always carried a torch for The Guy—and now she has a chance to do it all again. What better place to start than with the men who mean most to her, her father Tai and her longtime partner Bruno Ragazzi? From her father, Angela plucked the casual bohemian luxe of Missoni's signature knitwear. Her visits with Bruno to his tailor inspired her attention to bespoke detailing. Put the two together and you should by rights have a feast of masculine options, "a full wardrobe," as Angela herself defined her intention backstage. And there was indeed an enormous selection in the clothes that were shown on Missoni's fall catwalk. The big problem was that they were all shown at once, layer upon layer, which were all then relentlessly tucked into tailored trousers. "Does my butt look big in this?" Yes, as a matter of fact.

And yet, pluck it all apart and there were the striking ice-creamy colors, the complex knits, the sensual softness that has made Missoni a distinctive addendum to the indolently stylish man's closet, lo, these many years. And, if the multi-versioned soundtrack of "I Put a Spell on You" seemed a little too much like wishful thinking for now, a double-breasted gab jacket with a strap (which could hold your newspaper—you do still read, right?) and a sixties-sharp midnight-blue tux were the kind of items that suggested Angela may eventually be able to work the same kind of voodoo here as she did with Missoni's womenswear.

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