March 06, 2008
For fall, Marc Jacobs envisioned what he calls the Modern Urban Nomad, a man who's never in one place too long and is able to ship out quickly. You know, the type whose nationality takes a backseat to his business card (though Mr. Jacobs seemed to be looking even farther afield, to the day when a tattooed bar code will replace that business card). Jacobs' basics-heavy set gave classics a mix-and-match approacha topcoat in mustard-yellow with cotton twill sleevesand proportions were playful (think oversize jackets paired with skinny long johnstyle sweatpants). Those sweats were met mid-calf by lug-soled, zip-front combat boots produced in LVMH compatriot Berluti's factory, and they exemplified the collection's rugged elegance. The outerwear continued the theme, especially the smartly shrunken boiled-wool army field coat, an extra-wide-lapelled peacoat, and a very roomy nylon parka. Another notable group featured "recycled" knitwear, including cashmere sweaters whose ribbing was adorned with spray-paint-like effects, and pieces with duct tapelike appliqués along the seams. Both were meant to look reappropriateda fitting trait for our uncertain moment.