Marc Jacobs
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, March 7, 2008
By
For fall, Marc Jacobs envisioned what he calls the Modern Urban Nomad, a man who's never in one place too long and is able to ship out quickly. You know, the type whose nationality takes a backseat to his business card (though Mr. Jacobs seemed to be looking even farther afield, to the day when a tattooed bar code will replace that business card). Jacobs' basics-heavy set gave classics a mix-and-match approach—a topcoat in mustard-yellow with cotton twill sleeves—and proportions were playful (think oversize jackets paired with skinny long john–style sweatpants). Those sweats were met mid-calf by lug-soled, zip-front combat boots produced in LVMH compatriot Berluti's factory, and they exemplified the collection's rugged elegance. The outerwear continued the theme, especially the smartly shrunken boiled-wool army field coat, an extra-wide-lapelled peacoat, and a very roomy nylon parka. Another notable group featured "recycled" knitwear, including cashmere sweaters whose ribbing was adorned with spray-paint-like effects, and pieces with duct tape–like appliqués along the seams. Both were meant to look reappropriated—a fitting trait for our uncertain moment.
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