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Moschino

MILAN, January 14, 2008
By Tim Blanks
Ironic showiness is part of Moschino's DNA, inserted there by the label's late founder, so what better playground than Las Vegas to provide a context for its latest collection? From the invitation (a simulacrum of a croupier-worthy white waistcoat), to the backdrop (chairs piled high, just waiting for a wedding or a convention in a hotel banquet hall), to the dominant motif (a four-leaf clover), Moschino's fall show was waiting for luck to be a lady tonight. Accordingly, the clothes ran the gamut. The black-and-white Rat Pack vibe of glen plaid slacks and a jacquard shirt, with correspondents and a trilby pushed back on the model's head, were a twisted take on Sammy Davis, Jr. (though he might have preferred the suit trimmed with a candy stripe). An argyle sweater with tartan sleeves looked like golfwear for a gambling weekender, and a black silk suit came scattered with that four-leaf clover. A black sequined hoodie, meanwhile, suggested a platinum-selling rapper in town from L.A. for a prize fight, and a brown velvet waistcoat-and-pants combo (worn over a striped shirt) would look smart on a professional card counter. Bow ties and zappily two-toned patent shoes heightened the weird formality. This wasn't strictly Sin City as you now know it, more an imaginary-past-meets-imaginary-future take, but the collection was proof that there is always room for a cartoon in Milan's head-spinningly intense daily show schedule.

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