January 13, 2008
Ironic showiness is part of Moschino's DNA, inserted there by the label's late founder, so what better playground than Las Vegas to provide a context for its latest collection? From the invitation (a simulacrum of a croupier-worthy white waistcoat), to the backdrop (chairs piled high, just waiting for a wedding or a convention in a hotel banquet hall), to the dominant motif (a four-leaf clover), Moschino's fall show was waiting for luck to be a lady tonight. Accordingly, the clothes ran the gamut. The black-and-white Rat Pack vibe of glen plaid slacks and a jacquard shirt, with correspondents and a trilby pushed back on the model's head, were a twisted take on Sammy Davis, Jr. (though he might have preferred the suit trimmed with a candy stripe). An argyle sweater with tartan sleeves looked like golfwear for a gambling weekender, and a black silk suit came scattered with that four-leaf clover. A black sequined hoodie, meanwhile, suggested a platinum-selling rapper in town from L.A. for a prize fight, and a brown velvet waistcoat-and-pants combo (worn over a striped shirt) would look smart on a professional card counter. Bow ties and zappily two-toned patent shoes heightened the weird formality. This wasn't strictly Sin City as you now know it, more an imaginary-past-meets-imaginary-future take, but the collection was proof that there is always room for a cartoon in Milan's head-spinningly intense daily show schedule.