January 12, 2008 Milan
But the designer is selling himself short, because there is more to Barrett than "pulling." The ingenuity with which he layers outerwear, for instance: a quilted jacket over a cloth coat, a shearling over a suit jacket, a faux waistcoat attached to a parka (that piece has become something of a signature look). His affection for the style tribes of his native England also threads through his career. This season, the salopette offered him an unexpected variant on the suspenders favored by skinheads, to be worn over the shoulder, or dangling groundward. The effect was studiedly casual, but all the more edgy for it, and it reached critical mass when Barrett marched his models down the catwalk like his very own tribe. The day before his show, he announced a Japanese deal to encourage expansion in the East. There may be no revolution in his aesthetic, but there is an unstoppably steady evolution.