February 01, 2008
Swaim and Christina Hutson's last collection had the effortless charm of a well-bred wastrel spinning the goodwill of others into a moment of self-indulgent bliss. Their new collection pushed that idea further. Backstage, they were talking about uptown runaways, trustafarians on a tear. Not a notion that the wide world immediately feels any kind of sympathy for, but at least it translated into clothes with a kick. A tweed coat over neat little jersey pants? Why, it could almost have been Lanvin we were looking at. There was a deranged patrician quality at work hereclassics twisted, if you like. No wonder the show notes invoked Withnail. His beer-goggles logic dictated mutated proportions like a drop shoulder here, a tweedy short there. The brocade shorts suit was, however, an entirely Obedient conceit. In some alternative universe, there exists a mosh pit where such an outfit would be de rigueur.