February 01, 2008 New York
But, while it was fascinating as ever to parse Patrik Ervell's cool Scandinavian take on classic Americana, one is beginning to wish for a little more oomph in his offering. There's certainly room for a bit more creative audacity in Ervell's resolutely downbeat, detail-less tailored pieces: the single-buttoned jacket, the flat-front pant, the fly-front coat, so many of them shown with footwear of a karate-kid anonymity. Not to knock subtlety, but it shines brightest as one of many weapons in the arsenal of a designer who oozes confidence. It's possible Ervell may already be safely on that path. Could the gold-beaded, paillette-trimmed cardigan he showed really have taken three months to make? Why, that's practically couturewhich means oomph may be just around the corner.