Ann Demeulemeester
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 26, 2008
By Sarah Mower
The girls and boys in the Ann gang are slouching into a purplish patch for Fall. It's not far off their beaten path—you'd never expect that—but somewhere along the line, they've picked up an extra layer of mauve ombré-dyed Mongolian lamb, purple-painted shearlings, and maroon-fringed goat hair for winter. Demeulemeester deserves kudos, however, as her crowd never looks as if it's trailing off into Woodstock-slash-boho-rock-'n'-roll-retro costume. She's one of those people whose personal sense of indie cool goes to the bone, and never involves looking back or trying too hard.Things do change by calibrations, though, and this season it was in the proportions created by a wraparound tunic-length top or jacket, and pants tucked into high-laced knee boots. There was still plenty of black and examples of the Demeulemeester cutaway redingote, but they were leavened by a smattering of flower-print and fringed silk jackets. Best, though, was the modernization of this season's by now clichéd seventies chubby—in Demeulemeester's hands it became an asymmetric, high-wrapped cream Mongolian lamb stole with the tips dyed a cool shade of urban grime.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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