Alexandre Herchcovitch
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 2, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
Hearing a designer comment backstage that he began a collection with a complete disregard for the body, as Alexandre Herchcovitch did after his show, is certainly odd. Instead, the Brazilian downtown darling cited mathematics—geometry, specifically—as the driving force behind his Fall lineup.Thankfully, those claims of utter disregard hadn't entirely been borne out on the runway. Though Herchcovitch worked heavily with standaway architectural shapes that had a certain sixties futurism and boxy menswear-inflected tailoring, he maintained a sense of the female form, nipping in the waist of a bubble-skirted dress here or leaving a wool jumpsuit sleeveless there. That sense was more prominent in softly constructed pieces like silk dresses and T-shirts, some pieced together in triangular and rectangular blocks of black fabric and, later, in colors and patterns that underlined the designer's Euclidean motif.
While the playing out of his ideas on the runway was interesting and will easily sate Herchcovitch aficionados, the moment of full realization never seemed to arrive. Herchcovitch's vision is, as ever, an engaging one to have in New York, but Fall's show lacked the clarity of seasons past.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
