Allegra Hicks
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 15, 2008
By Tim Blanks
After building a following on her caftans, it was inevitable that Allegra Hicks would want to challenge herself more as a designer. There's a whole world of structure out there to explore. Hence, tailored items like the lamé pinstripe suit and the brocade cocktail dress in this collection. The tailoring lacked the necessary precision, however. Hicks fared better when she kept things simple, wrapped, and drapedshe claimed as inspiration the dress worn by Ballets Russes dancer Olga Khokhlova in Picasso's 1917 portrait. One silk-jersey wrap dress, called Fifty-Four, was also surely a tip of the cap to erstwhile disco queen Diane von Furstenberg. That was a reminder that Hicks herself is the linchpin of a glamorous set. Presumably, it was her friends she had in mind when she came up with a collection that slotted so completely into the category once called After Five. If that sounds a little, um, square in our own era, then there was also something a little square about these clothes. A velvet opera coat with fox-trimmed sleeves or a coat of silver leather ribbed with fur (and worn with tweed lamé trousers) offered the Hicksettes a kind of antique glamour curiously at odds with what one imagines to be their lifestyles./
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo






