Anna Sui
NEW YORK, February 6, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Backstage, Anna Sui ticked off her references: the aesthetic movement, pre-Raphaelites, Tiffany vases, Fortuny pleats, medievalism, Gustav Klimt, and, oh, yes, the American Indians of the Pacific Northwest. A beautiful mess? To some, maybe. But to her fans, watching the new and different ways she loops together her encyclopedic appreciation of fashion history each season is nothing less than a pure delight. With its iridescent prints, lively color combinations, and Art Nouveau-ish embroideries—to say nothing of the tooled-leather boots, velvet flower headpieces, beaded necklaces, and paisley tights—her Fall collection ranks among her most exuberant.In no particular order, she showed a stained-glass bird-motif smock worn over a totem pole-print top, a white faux-suede fringed dress, a metallic lamé space-dyed cape, a multi-print caftan edged in python lamé, a curly lamb coat in ultramarine, and a black-and-cream Tibetan goat capelet. The cumulative effect? Very late sixties. "Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds" was playing on the sound system, and somewhere the Beatles' guru, Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, who died earlier this week at the age of 91, was smiling.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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