Mark Badgley and James Mischka said Bianca Jagger was their woman for Fall. Clues that the seventies were the duo's starting point included a brick-red crinkled leather jacket worn with a matching, flared above-the-knee skirt; and an apricot turtleneck and boot-cut glen plaid pants worn with a little broadtail-and-fox vest.

They aren't the kind of designers to launch themselves willy-nilly into a theme. So worked in among the floral shirtwaists, floppy felt hats, and high suede boots were the kind of reliable, timeless clothes that the ladies who lunch live for: a pencil skirtsuit in a buff tweed shot through with metallic thread, or wool crepe tuxedo pants worn with a chiffon blouse and a little silk faille jacket with short mink sleeves.

Badgley Mischka's daywear is always sensible enough, and this season is no different. But anyone with a Bergdorf's charge card knows that their raison d'être is eveningwear. Two of the best gala looks were an amethyst organza creation hand-painted with impressionistic flowers, and a strapless bustier style with a lace overlay studded with crystals. The spare elegance of these looks made you wish the boys had left the silver and gold sequins, splashed liberally on other big-night dresses, back at the disco.