It's the last day of Paris, and if people aren't preoccupied with plotting their exit strategies, they're tallying up the season's strongest shows and asking questions about what it all means. It's not a good day for the Aussie designer Collette Dinnigan to present her modest collection. There are simply too many reasons to overlook it, and Dinnigan's first job should be to address that issue before another season passes.

As for the show itself, it hewed close to the agenda she established in her last two seasons here: party clothes that straddle the sexy-sweet divide. In the sexy camp were a taffeta baby-doll dress with pleats and a strapless point d'esprit gown. On the sweet side were rock star-skinny leather leggings and stretch jersey pants worn with a one-shoulder top fully covered in crystals; a puff-shouldered, belted satin tunic; and a fitted jacket with metallic frogging on its front.

One little black dress with a sculptural bow above a bare, low-cut back stood out from all the rest. Dinnigan's second task should be to take that frock back to the studio and study it. A collection full of pieces as clever and cute could get her noticed here.