Chado Ralph Rucci
PARIS, March 2, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
The program notes explained that in place of the art and fashion images that usually inspire Ralph Rucci, he looked to quantum mechanics. As highfalutin as that sounds, it produced his most unfettered and modern work yet.Quantum mechanics is the physics of waves, and an undulating motif coursed through the show—on a streamlined wool jersey day dress with decorative parallel seams traveling up the torso, say, or on a double-faced cashmere coat stitched together from concentric ovals. The concept came to its apotheosis in a tulle gown embroidered with rippling tubes of duchesse satin, a technique borrowed and adapted from the legendary Madame Grès. Other standouts included a vinyl raincoat quilted in a sunray pattern (yes, fashion's foremost fabric aesthete deigned to use vinyl) and a densely embroidered paillette dress with a horsehair underlay for shape.
But a word on Rucci's time slot: 8:30 p.m. on Sunday, the last day of a long month of collections. He moved his show to Paris, in part, so that his exquisite workmanship, and it is remarkable, could be better appreciated in the birthplace of couture. If he wants the full attention of the fashion community, he should find an open slot earlier in the schedule and grab it.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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