Christopher Kane
LONDON, February 12, 2008
By Sarah Mower
The declarations that were flying through the air after Christopher Kane's Fall show ranged from "poetic" (a dreamy young editor) to "commercially sellable" (a store buyer) to "Virginia Woolf's Orlando meets John Everett Millais' Ophelia " (from a newspaper headline hound). It opened with a charcoal cashmere poncho knit, wended its way through khaki Aran tabards, and built up into shivery plastic paillettes on organdy contrasted with stud-embellished cashmere sweaters.In other words, no sound bite or literal theme adequately describes the way Kane's collection turned out this season. The manner in which he and his sister Tammy design is a kinetic process given to many changes. Witness: Two months ago he was thinking about the Queen, Barbara Cartland, and Big Bird. What they came up with, in essence, is a pretty contribution to party dressing involving veiled panels of sequins on dresses and a wispy suggestion of a longer hemline (transparencies were left to waft below the knee without constriction). Weirdly, if there's a criticism, it's in the fact that the frisson of vulgarity that was central to Kane's attraction in his first three seasons was somehow absent. On the other hand, maybe that's OK. At this point, Kane, like any young designer who wants to make it, needs something to sell without upsetting customers. And this Fall, the Glaswegian fashion prodigy may have put himself in a better position to survive.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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