February 03, 2008 New York
The first look set the Gallic wood-nymph tone: an emerald silk shift with an intricate, openwork hem topped by an organza-leaf bolero that looked like Edward Scissorhands had cut it fresh this morning. It made the point, if not subtly. Malandrino is a designer who loves a motif, hence her liberal use of green and other woodsy hues, the introduction of an abstract leaf print, and the presence of that foliaged organza. Sweater-dressing was an integral part of the story (see the webby gowns, flirty little suits, and beastly bouclé cashmere jumpers), as was volume (the cocooned sleeves and linebacker shoulders). A bit much? At times, yes, but the excess was tempered by moments of simplicity, like a crocheted column gown with a matching leather bolero, both in basic black.