Carlos Miele
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 6, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
Last season, we saw Carlos Miele in the midst of a clean-up act, jettisoning some of the excess that has previously weighed down his collections. His Fall show was an evolution of the same process, with the designer trying harder than ever to utilize his powers of restraint—insofar as that's allowed under Brazilian law. Fresh off the accomplishment of designing his 8,000-square-foot São Paulo boutique and his beach house on the island of Florianópolis, Miele had architecture on the brain. In seasons past, this reference wouldn't have been subtle, but here he worked it gently into the curved seams and twisted straps of colorful, fluid gowns that snaked gracefully around the body, and into the texture of square pleating on coats, skirts, and sculptural cable knits. An injection of menswear—particularly a black blazer worn over an evening skirt—was unexpected but wholly welcome: It was a great counterpoint to Miele's typical va-va-voom femininity. With his new ad campaign now hitting magazines, the designer's more restrained approach is picking up steam.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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