Costello Tagliapietra
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 2, 2008
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Hoping to showcase "a different side" of their talent, Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra dreamt up individual characters for each of their models, engaged the MisShapes to do the music, and, after deciding on the waist as the anchor of their silhouette, set about playing with sleeves and hem lengths.The haunting fairy-tale illustrations of Arthur Rackham and Gustaf Tenggren were the creative kickoff point. Rackham's and Tenggren's long-locked nymphs, "oddly enough," the designers said, "lead us to forties film noir." (Well, both genres are dark and moody, and they do both feature sylphlike damsels in distress.) The rigor of that decade's lines, already a touchstone this season, was a good match for Costello and Tagliapietra's draping skills, as evidenced by the slim cocktail dresses, especially a beautiful gathered teal one worn by Danielle Zinaich and a gray satin number with "claw" insets. They also included more silk (some sand-washed four times to give it a sueded hand) amid their signature jersey, and successfully added prints, notably a trompe l'oeil fur and a Rorschach floral.
It was when the well-liked duo went against their own grain and tried to go uncharacteristically casual that missteps were made. For instance, when a silky wrap was awkwardly layered over a turtleneck. Styling, in other words, is where they slightly lost the plot.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
