Stærk
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 8, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
After seeing a photograph of the strikingly kohl-eyed abstract expressionist sculptor Louise Nevelson, Camilla Stærk was intrigued enough to immerse herself in the groundbreaking artist's work. "I can't believe I didn't know who she was. She's so up my alley," said the designer backstage. Indeed she is, and perhaps that's why Stærk's Fall collection, called Black Bride of the Moon, came together so beautifully, intertwining the twin darknesses of her own vaguely perverse, modern vision with Nevelson's angular and textural "assemblages." The artist's sculpture Spike was echoed in the straps of a leather pinafore, the belt on a harem jumpsuit, and a repetition print seen on a chiffon blouse and a body-hugging skirt. Stærk added texture to her scooped, layered tank dresses in black jersey, wrapping one with strips of thin black leather, cutting another in a smoky geometric lace, and even one in fringed black leather. She delved for the first time into knits, toughening everyday merino with leather, rubber, and metal yarns, and broke more new ground with eveningwear in lace and elegant coated silk. This was easily Stærk's most polished and coherent effort to date. It should help lift her from under the radar into the mainstream of young New York talents, where she belongs.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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