Daks by Giles Deacon
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 20, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Now in his third season at Daks, Giles Deacon has begun to tame his tendency to create the one-off showpiece (or a show full of them) and instead put together a more cohesive, complete collection. He started things off with leather outerwear, moving from a soft-shouldered olive trench to a brown cocoon coat with a gathered neck—both as smart as they were sensible. More sportif were a quilted jacket in safety orange and a black hooded stadium coat. The show's strongest toppers were trapeze-shaped and came in a substantial purple or iridescent gray tweed; he used the same fabric for a pencil skirt and a blouson jacket. Other skirtsuits—cropped and fitted jackets worn with the season's new calf-grazing, narrow skirt—came with neat little scarves tied at the neck, a reminder of this British label's proper past.Where Deacon faltered was with the evening pieces. Maybe he'd used up all his good ideas in London, or at Fay, the American brand owned by the Tod's Group, for which he debuted a 25-piece capsule collection earlier this week? In any case, the Daks dresses—a lineup of loose, waistless silk numbers in gray or bright pink embellished at the bodice with matching paillettes—felt slack compared to his polished tailoring.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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