February 02, 2008
"Eclectic Glamour," trumpeted the notes at DKNY, where the first showing was so shoulder-to-shoulder packed that you wondered if everyone but you knew that Madonna or Justin Timberlake was giving an impromptu concert. Nope, people were there for the clothes, and there was a lot to seea colorful, tactile, thrown-together riot of tweed, brocade, Lurex jacquard, printed silk, corduroy, and a sheep farm's worth of knits: patterned intarsias, cozy hand-knits, and fringed dresses. You did just read the word "eclectic," remember? The sixties were in full swing in the proliferation of baby-doll silhouettes, but it's a shape from seasons past that doesn't seem ready for revival just yet. Karan and her team tapped into the bohemian glamour of Biba in sweet peasant dresses, which, when removed from the busy whole, will be a sure hitas will other pieces like a bouclé bomber jacket and several chunky sweaters. But in the end, the goal of eclecticism seemed to get the best of the situation, creating a cacophonous mix for a collection that usually rings clear with fresh energy.