Dsquared²
MILAN, February 21, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
This season, the Dsquared² girl is a secretary, or maybe a librarian, with a seriously wild streak. By day, she wears a little cardigan tossed over a belted turtleneck and pencil skirt, a camel coat with a fur collar, or, when she's feeling bold, a tartan skirtsuit with pleats at the back of a nip-waisted jacket. But after dark, it's a different story. She spends most nights at her lover's place, in lingerie: black silk camis under fitted blazers, or a bustier dress with silver spikes. Sometimes the lingerie stays on for the morning dash back to her place. The show's last look wasn't a big gown, but a nude and black teddy that the model coquettishly hid from view behind a fur chubby on her proverbial walk of shame.As lascivious as that sounds, this was a fairly buttoned-up show for the theatrics-loving Caten brothers. It featured some of the outerwear they do so well—including a tweedy pod coat with a fur collar and a sportier take on the same shape with a gold zip closure. Too bad these were almost obscured amid the flesh-tone fishnets and platform pumps with lightning-bolt heels (which several of the girls had a curiously difficult time keeping on their feet). That the Catens should be such unreformed party boys but excel at chic practicality is an irony appreciated by a growing number of observers, but it still seems lost on them.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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