Emporio Armani
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 17, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Giorgio Armani opened his Emporio show with a nip-waisted, flaring velvet coat that had a zipper descending diagonally from one shoulder to the opposite hip. It's a silhouette that's become familiar these last few seasons chez Armani, but he quickly segued into the "relaxed approach" and "masculine aplomb" his show notes promised, and in what felt like a return of sorts to his roots, he sent out a battalion's worth of pants. Double-pleated and cuffed in techno-utility fabrics or fuller through the thighs and tapering to the ankles in velvet, they were paired with jackets in oversize checks, stamped crocodile, chalk stripes, metallic leather, and more. The variety of fabrics notwithstanding, nearly all of those jackets were cut close to the body and fitted through the waist, and in keeping with the show's tailored turn, the hats, bags, and jewelry that accessorized every look were often spare and geometric in feeling. Even the casting was focused on models with short, angular haircuts.That's not to say Armani neglected feminine sparkle—his repertoire, to say nothing of his retail footprint, is too wide-ranging for that. The crystal- and mirror-encrusted dresses that closed the show should appeal to the customer who insists on always dressing like a lady. But in a season when everyone is talking about the return of sportswear separates, it was good to see the designer largely playing to his first strength.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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