Salvatore Ferragamo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 19, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Cristina Ortiz is doubtless under a great deal of pressure as the new creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, where she replaces Graeme Black, who left the brand to focus on his signature label. The strain showed today. Ortiz was way off the mark with a brash collection of chain-mail minidresses, silk satin halterneck jumpsuits, spiraling coats and jackets spliced together with what looked like silver sutures, and cutaway gowns suspended from the shoulders with cobwebby threads—all of which came out on Lucite wedge heels with clear plastic toe straps. The Las Vegas vibe—one unlucky model walked the length of the runway in an ill-fitting halter top that left her breasts exposed—felt out of sync not only with the season but also with the company's heritage as a maker of traditionally elegant shoes and accessories.Ferragamo celebrates its 80th anniversary this year, beginning with a grand fête in Shanghai next month that is scheduled to include a restaging of the Fall collection. There's still time to rejigger the mix by focusing on the pieces that did work here: a softly constructed bronze leather trench; a circular-cut suit jacket with rounded lapels shown with high-waisted, wide-legged pants; and a cape made from alternating stripes of black and silver sequins. Those looks could put the class back in classic.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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