February 17, 2008 Milan
Much more than the Spring show had, this felt like a paean to the late designer, not least because his original sketches were projected onto the back of the runway. The girls wore a succession of familiar Ferré signatures, like demonstrative white shirts with sweeping collars, and dresses with architectural flourishesgeometric ruffles at the shoulder blades or a bodice pleated like a fan. Ferré's meticulous tailoring was literally turned inside out, so that the inner workings of a dress were exposed. Stylist Lori Goldstein, with whom Ferré once collaborated on advertising campaigns, was brought in to put it all together, but despite everyone's efforts, it never really jelled. Group projects of this kind rarely do. Until the house hires a new creative director, as it has said it intends to do, it won't move forward.