Haider Ackermann
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 28, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Tracking Haider Ackermann's progress, you get the impression that fashion could move from giddy florals to strict tailoring and back again and he'd still be doing the wafty draping and layering he's known for. In that regard, he's a lot like Rick Owens, whose work Ackermann sometimes echoes. This time around, the designer named birds and monasteries as his unlikely inspirations. You could see suggestions of the former in the ostrich plumes that peeked from the collars and lapels of side-fastening wrap jackets and coats, as well as in the parachute-silk hoods and tails left exposed by snug little leather bombers. The monastery part came across in the silk robes, although there was nothing monkish about a sexy black number that twisted at the ribs.Ackermann's problems started below the waist. He said he wanted a very long line, but the way he layered soft, slouchy sweats or other more structured pants above leggings, and then bunched them up above the knee, created a droopy-drawers effect, even on the lankiest of his models. And besides, does anybody want to work that hard getting dressed in the morning? Much more appealing were those jackets, and a key densely draped turtleneck dress.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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