February 03, 2008 New York
Halston's oeuvre is of course well-known, and Zanini showed it a healthy amount of respect, launching straight into such signatures as the shirtdress and easy separates like boot-cut pants and long skirts with a soft swing, as well as tent dresses that he showed in cashmere, silk, and jersey. Zanini had also studied the late designer's color palettethe dusty pastels were all there.
The newcomer already has one true believer: Liza Minnelliin a vintage Halston pantsuit, naturallylet out an enthusiastic whoop at the first look, a lush knit cape in slate gray over a matching knit dress and suede knee-high boots. But overall, the collection left you wanting more. More of Halston's double-face cashmere coats, yes, but also more of a sense of how Zanini will take the label forward. The unstructured evening gowns he showed today won't cut it.