House of Holland
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 13, 2008
By Sarah Mower
Henry Holland and Agyness Deyn are the mascots of young London fashion, the self-made It boy and girl who, in the space of six months, invented themselves as a famously cheeky designer and the chirpiest cover girl in the business. Holland's still up to his fun and games. This season, he mythologized their friendship in a fake coat of arms (in which the figure of Aggy is emblazoned on a shield), persuaded her into a pair of plaid antlers, and had the model and her friends romp out in a Highland collection featuring a mauve-and-yellow fake House of Holland tartan, specially woven in Scotland.For all his boisterousness, Holland, a former writer for the teen mag Bliss, is pushing himself to prove his capabilities as a designer—or more accurately, since he never went to fashion school, as an orchestrator who gets other people to help him make things he likes for a show. There were mini-kilts in tartan and pink or black mohair knit; skinny tartan trews with kilt buckles displaced to the ankle; and, in a clever morphing of two British classics, a trench-kilt hybrid that looked not just amusing but viably sellable.
The tartan/street theme raised a laugh and a bit of Brit nostalgia from anyone old enough to remember Vivienne Westwood's Highland-fling phase and its well-worn associations with teddy boys and punks. The fashion content stretched to a couple of iterations of London's latest pash for long dresses—a mid-calf T-shirt and a sweater dress—and accessories including jaunty oversize tam-o'-shanters and a funny extra-large sporran, made for Holland by the multitalented Katie Hillier.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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