February 19, 2008
The program notes cited pop artist Roy Lichtenstein as inspiration for the comic-strip print that appeared first as the lining of a jacket hood, then as part of a bright blue patchworked sheath, and eventually on coats edged in fur. In fact, a cartoonish undercurrentsomething very much on the minds of showgoers after this morning's press conference for the Costume Institute's Superheroes exhibitsuffused the entire Iceberg collection. First there were the outsize, even outlandish proportions: tailored coats came with bulging, down-filled quilted sleeves; a puffer jacket was reimagined as a skirtsuit, its eccentric volume still intact. The theme then extended to embellishments: In the bodices of colorful, leopard-print silk chiffon gowns lurked abstract face masks. One model wore a black hood complete with feline ears à la Catwoman.
In the mix were some more approachable and seasonally on-message sweater dresses. That was a good thing. Much as we'd all like to be able to leap across buildings in a single boundand do it in stilettos, why not?it's not clear how many of these pieces will fit into a real-life wardrobe.