Iceberg
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 20, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
The program notes cited pop artist Roy Lichtenstein as inspiration for the comic-strip print that appeared first as the lining of a jacket hood, then as part of a bright blue patchworked sheath, and eventually on coats edged in fur. In fact, a cartoonish undercurrent—something very much on the minds of showgoers after this morning's press conference for the Costume Institute's Superheroes exhibit—suffused the entire Iceberg collection. First there were the outsize, even outlandish proportions: tailored coats came with bulging, down-filled quilted sleeves; a puffer jacket was reimagined as a skirtsuit, its eccentric volume still intact. The theme then extended to embellishments: In the bodices of colorful, leopard-print silk chiffon gowns lurked abstract face masks. One model wore a black hood complete with feline ears à la Catwoman.In the mix were some more approachable and seasonally on-message sweater dresses. That was a good thing. Much as we'd all like to be able to leap across buildings in a single bound—and do it in stilettos, why not?—it's not clear how many of these pieces will fit into a real-life wardrobe.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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