Jens Laugesen is working a big shoulder this season. "It's a double shoulder pad, from men's tailoring," he explained. "But I've been figuring out how to morph that with corsetry to make a fusion that's sexy." That meant he'd followed up the teddy boy tux jackets that sold well from his Spring collection, refabricated them from gold lamé to electric-blue couture brocade, and added more drummer boy, DJ, and bomber shapes. They came out paired with skintight high-waist pants, body-hugging dresses, and a catsuit, to which the designer had added some concession toward comfort and fit in the form of panels of stretch in the back.

Still, as a look, it was pretty sharp and demanding—and for most women, probably more palatable when contrasted with his softer smock dresses, an element Laugesen termed his "Laura Ashley moment."