Just Cavalli

MILAN, February 17, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Roberto Cavalli took a don't-mess-with-a-good-thing approach to his Just Cavalli collection. His seventies-inflected signature show for Spring received rave reviews, so why not revisit the decade at his little-sister line for Fall? Of course, the labels have different target audiences—Just Cavalli's could be described as teenagers with trust funds—so the references were no longer esoteric, but obvious: Janis Joplin crossed with Mick Jagger at Altamont is a fitting description.

Short smock dresses in a cheeky flamingo print worn with patterned tights shared the stage—er, runway—with maxidresses in bright florals. Slightly less out-there were a tangerine jersey pantsuit and an A-line camel coat. They vied for attention with stripy knit Lurex cardigans and extra-long scarves—and lost. If you're going to go vintage, why play it straight? In the glam-hippie mix, a leather motocross jacket that topped a python mini seemed out of place. The deep purple lamb-fur coat was more in keeping with the show's retro spirit. For many of the grown-ups in the crowd the long, colorful parade came off as much too familiar and theme-y, but his youngest fans—the ones born in the nineties—will likely forgive that. After all, this is probably their first seventies revival.

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