La Perla
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 19, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
It's been a slow process, but La Perla has weaned itself from the overt sort of sexiness that had been the brand's most marked characteristic. Yes, the lingerie details were still there today—in silk georgette dresses edged with Chantilly lace, or on blouses with the sort of sheer neckline that inevitably draws the eye to the décolleté. But the too-obvious touches of recent seasons, like superfluous bras and whaleboning worn on the outside of clothes, were happily absent. This brought up a new issue, though: What, exactly, should the focus of the brand's ready-to-wear business be? For Fall, the buzzwords backstage were the "nouvelle vague" and the "nonchalant elegance" of one of its heroines, Jeanne Moreau. That translated into a smartly cut bracelet-sleeve coat trimmed at the hem with fox and worn with narrow flared pants, as well as a metallic copper strapless cocktail dress. Both of those fared better than the cheetah-print numbers or the pleated floor-length gowns in a sheer chiffon that awkwardly exposed under-slips ending above the knee. On the evidence of this show, La Perla's identity is still a work in progress.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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