Luisa Beccaria
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 21, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
The show was moved this season from Luisa Beccaria's Brera district shop, with its sparkly pastel walls, to Milan's soulless Fiera—and what was gained in convenience was lost in intimacy. It's not a negligible point for a designer who built her success as much on the charm of her personal story and the gorgeous looks of her young brood as on her pretty party frocks. Location aside, this was typical Luisa Beccaria: frothy, sweeter than a candy shop, and without so much as one rough edge. Citing points of reference as divergent as Whistler and the seventies photographer Sarah Moon, she worked mostly in an opalescent palette of soft pinks, pale blues, and silvery whites, with shots of Fall's popular iridescent purples and greens. Daytime offerings included a Shetland wool shift with lacelike embroidery on the patch pockets, a crocheted dress with delicate needlework at the yoke, and a frilly bow-front blouse worn with an A-line skirt. For evening—where her heart is—Beccaria ranged from a pouf-skirted dance dress with a sweetheart neckline to ruffled tulle trapezes that overpowered her models' narrow frames.Among the more interesting pieces were a peacock-feather-print day dress worn with a wide, striped suede belt and a floor-length net dress with a plunging V-neck and cap sleeves in allover ribbon embroidery. Subtle and sophisticated, they saved the collection from becoming too precious and doll-like.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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