Luca Luca
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 4, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
Fall represented a major shift for Luca Orlandi. He bid adieu to Bryant Park in favor of a small West Chelsea gallery and, instead of a runway show, presented a tight collection of 20 looks. "It's very couture, so we wanted people to see it up close," explained Orlandi's newly installed creative director, Raul Melgoza.Melgoza cited as inspiration artist Ernesto Caivano's exquisite drawings of a medieval love story in which a long-separated couple sends messages through birds. But this is clearly a new day at Luca Luca—the execution almost qualified as subtle, particularly when you consider last Fall's glitzy après-ski fest. The avian and woodland theme appeared in a winglike caped sleeve on a plain silk dress or tiny peacock-feather paillettes embroidered on a satin L.B.D.
In all, it was a thoughtfully designed, luxurious collection that hit all the necessary wardrobe points for a lady-who-10022s—i.e., an effortless jersey dress with a draped neck for lunch, a broadtail shift with a sliver of jeweled neckline for cocktails, and a strapless Chantilly lace gown delicately worked with marabou for night. It will be interesting to see how Orlandi's customers adjust to flying under the radar.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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