Max Azria
NEW YORK, February 4, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
"It's a bit stronger, a bit sexier," said Lubov Azria backstage before the show, holding up as evidence a trapunto-stitched bra, to be worn Madonna-style over your clothes. Fall, explained Mrs. Azria, was essentially an evolution of Spring's boudoir-inspired show. But the underwear-as-outerwear did make you wonder whether the Azrias' clothes were actually evolving from boudoir to bawdy. That wasn't quite the case on the runway, however: Despite the presence of external underthings and glimpses of under-underthings, any brazen sexuality was muffled by the heavy fabrics and muted hues of Fall in a crowded show that could have used a little more focus. Instead, it was sex as accessory—a corset to cinch a sweater dress with a saucy bit of taffeta peeking out, or a garter just barely visible through a silk gauze trench. With an abundance of skirts, dresses, and an overall emphasis on the waist, there was a lot of lady present here, but the most interesting looks juxtaposed her with a practical, tomboy touch—a color-blocked T-shirt fastened with a stitched brassiere, tucked into soft cashmere pants that might do double duty as pajamas. Perhaps the next evolution come Spring?
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
