Malo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 4, 2008
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Fall found Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano and their models going around in circles. The show was held on an oval catwalk, and there was a round-and-round theme to embellishments and patterns.The rings worked well on a printed silk dress with subtle circular insets, and on a series of short, full skirts that managed to look modern and not retro fifties. But when the circle motifs were applied to thicker knits, the result was a heavy pod structure that overwhelmed the frail models at times. Although the Italian designers were hoping to capture an oceanic-tribal vibe, the result was more cyborg.
There was ambition here. The celestial details scattered throughout were inspired by the bull's-eyes and starry canvases of Richard Pousette-Dart, a pioneering abstract expressionist whose work Aquilano discovered at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. And the hand-treated angoras looked incredibly soft, like gossamer swansdown. ("We're trying to make knitwear that doesn't fit the conception of what knitwear looks like," the designers explained through a translator before the show.) But however well crafted the clothes were, in the end they were overwhelmed by the concept.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
