Marchesa
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 6, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
With the Vanity Fair Oscar party canceled and the fate of the awards show itself still in the balance, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig were smart to scale back the number of red-carpet dresses in their presentation. What their Hollywood clients need now is something less grand, but not—and this is key—something less glamorous. Marchesa's Fall presentation had glamour in spades, from the opening high-neck red suede above-the-knee dress with bunches of organza roses for sleeves, to the plunge-front black silk tuxedo one-piece. Both paid subtle tribute to the duo's chosen muse, Queen Elizabeth I, who, Craig explained, was forced to keep her femininity hidden despite her awesome power. Hence the aforementioned high neck and the pants (no matter that the Virgin Queen never actually wore trousers).Chapman and Craig's decision to allude only loosely to the famous monarch paid off in such pieces as an aubergine satin and organza cocktail dress that draped from the neckline to the knees. There was a new structure to these clothes, as Craig herself was eager to point out. Take a stunning black dress with an hourglass shape so sculpturally defiant, it evoked armor. Anybody who wore it would be paparazzi-proof. You didn't expect Marchesa to completely forsake the red carpet, did you?
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
