February 20, 2008 Milan
According to the program notesand the soundtrackRoxy Music-era London glam was the inspiration. That gave a (thankfully mild) seventies-slash-forties excuse for a tweed coat with bristling fox-fur sleeves that opened the show, and the tweaked-up padded shoulder lines that followed from there. There were fine alpaca coats and sleeveless, slightly A-line jackets whose cuts followed in the slipstream of the ideas pioneered by Stefano Pilati and Roland Mouret last season. The reiteration of the shoulder kept coming in knitwear, including boleros done in oversize Aran-knit patterns with thick cable tubes circling the upper arm. After that, a slow drift into tinsel cardigans, sweaters, and unforgiving Lurex jersey dresses threatened to wipe out the classiness, but never mind. The moral: MaxMara looks best when it's not trying too hard, as demonstrated by the charcoal-gray pantsuit and chiffon tie-necked blouse with a coat jacket shrugged over the shoulders by the insouciant Lily Donaldson. That's the way to do it.