MaxMara
MILAN, February 21, 2008
By Sarah Mower
There's a cadre of girls who are getting into tailoring now—they're out there at the shows, working strong-shouldered blazers over dresses, and striding around looking good in sharp-line pants again. That's a trend swing sure to track upward for Fall, but after such a long phase in which designers have ditched structure for bubble shifts, who's left that can still cut it? MaxMara is one company that remains equipped to do the job properly, and its Fall collection smartly laid the jackets, tweeds, and impeccable coats on the line.According to the program notes—and the soundtrack—Roxy Music-era London glam was the inspiration. That gave a (thankfully mild) seventies-slash-forties excuse for a tweed coat with bristling fox-fur sleeves that opened the show, and the tweaked-up padded shoulder lines that followed from there. There were fine alpaca coats and sleeveless, slightly A-line jackets whose cuts followed in the slipstream of the ideas pioneered by Stefano Pilati and Roland Mouret last season. The reiteration of the shoulder kept coming in knitwear, including boleros done in oversize Aran-knit patterns with thick cable tubes circling the upper arm. After that, a slow drift into tinsel cardigans, sweaters, and unforgiving Lurex jersey dresses threatened to wipe out the classiness, but never mind. The moral: MaxMara looks best when it's not trying too hard, as demonstrated by the charcoal-gray pantsuit and chiffon tie-necked blouse with a coat jacket shrugged over the shoulders by the insouciant Lily Donaldson. That's the way to do it.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
