Martin Grant
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 1, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Retailers love his kind of clothes: sophisticated, but not severe, suits and dresses that nod in the direction of trend but don't come with a built-in "best before" date. And today Martin Grant duly delivered on his fans' expectations with a collection that came in a woman-friendly palette of orangey-red and electric blue, as well as black, navy, camel, and ivory. He opened with a flame-red coat that will be like a beacon on the sales floor; it had two big, black buttons on a capelike overlay above a belted waist. His other coats were either true capes (a striking camel cashmere one, worn with black cigarette pants, fell to the hips from a stand-away collar) or came with short dolman sleeves, a big fur collar, and self-belts.The designer played with different volumes when it came to dresses, too. A silk-satin sack and a drapey jersey were V-shaped, with a lot of room up top and narrowed skirts. But then he showed a gorgeous white charmeuse hourglass with a single, subtle rosette at the hem. Its counterpoint was a dramatic ivory smoking jacket with satin lapels, worn with long, full pants with permanent creases. This was Grant at his reality-chic best.
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Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Daughters Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche Krystof Strozyna -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Requiem Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
